Jose Luis Azeredo
Médico
São Paulo
SP |
07/05/2009 |
Talvez esta seja uma tendência a se observar nestas comparações. Depois de algum tempo, os provadores deixam de se encantar com a "novidade" e passam a valorizar o "terroir", as diferenças entre os vinhos, seu potencial.
Com o conhecimento e experiência, cada um adquire uma preferência, mas
numa análise mais profunda, o novo anda sempre a querer imitar o velho, e vice versa.
Por isso, vinhos da mesma idade, uns que sabemos serem de longa guarda, outros de menor, podem competir. Uns mais, outros menos, todos são para o aqui e agora.
Além da ordem de posição, seria interessante saber em alguma escala, o desvio padrão de qualidade.
Azeredo,
O painel tinha cerca de 80 degustadores e as notas, individuais ou médias, não foram divulgadas na revista. Mas Jancis Robinson publicou em seu site suas notas e suas impressões sobre os vinhos que eu reproduzo abaixo, em inglês mesmo:
Opus One 2005 Napa Valley 17.5- Drink 2013-20
Not very opulent, ripe nose – introvert. Cassis. Opulent and very sweet on the front palate. Then inky finish – even a little too tannic. Certainly very dry! Very youthful. Slightly tarry, and finishes a bit short. Slightly skinny. B?
Sassicaia 2005 Bolgheri 16.5 Drink 2011-17
Paler and older than most. Subtle and complex on the nose, very sweet start. One of the most distinctive wines – a little lacking real concentration and with rather marked acidity. Just a bit too raw – but it’s not typically Chilean. Very different from most. An Italian ringer? Or maybe just an inexpressive Bordeaux? Not showing well against all the opulence.
Viñedo Chadwick 2005 Maipo 17.5 Drink 2010-18
[100% Cab Sauvignon.] Pure, very ripe and a little Ribena like on the nose... Very rich indeed – lovely layers of opulence – though definitely non classic. Sweeter than classic. And just a little angular on the finish, but very well made. C
Don Maximiano 2005 Aconcagua Valley 17.5- Drink 2010-18
[Just a touch of Cab Franc and Syrah but mainly Cab Sauvignon.] A little paler than some. Very firm and focussed on the nose. Very sweet start. Lovely balance and quite gentle rather than kerpow. Non classic but very well made. Acid a little dominant on the finish though. C
Ch Margaux 2005 Margaux 18.5 Drink 2014-28
Warm, supple, ripe. But with some top quality savoury oak and a dry finish too. Lots of tannin on the finish. Dry but not drying - persistent. Pretty damned classic. B
Seña 2006 Aconcagua Valley 17 Drink 2012-20
Exceptionally deep crimson, Slightly raw cassis. Deep crimson. Sweet initial impression with slightly green top notes [because of the Carmenère component?]. Amazing depth of colour. The deepest wine of the lot. C
Ch Latour 2005 Pauillac 18+ Drink 2015-30
Lots of minerals – the most obviously Bordeaux so far. Very subtle indeed – many layered. Exciting. Dry finish. B
Viñedo Chadwick 2005 Maipo Valley 17.5 Drink 2013-19
Quite complex and ripe. Big and black. A little raw. But very interesting! Spiny and mint chocolate. Hint of green. Sleek. Complete. Dry finish. C
Solaia 2005 Toscana 17 Drink 2013-19
[20% Sangiovese] Subtle colour. Sweet with some obvious but very smart oak on the nose. But then quite dry. Just a little drying on the finish. Not sure about the oak here. Pretty drying on the finish.
Don Maximiano 2006 Aconcagua Valley 17-- Drink 2012-18
[90% CS, 5% Syrah, 5% CF and Merlot] Subtle colour. Very focussed. Very deep colour – Don Max? Almost porty. But with some green too. Massive rather than subtle. Very awkward greenness on the finish. C
Seña 2005 Aconcagua Valley 17.5+ Drink 2014-22
[Contains some Carmenère] Quite fragile. Lots of evolution on the rim. Fresh, complete nose. Some mintiness. Interesting. Distinctive. Very racy and refreshing. Much racier than most. One of my favourite Chileans. [14.5%] C?
Ch Lafite 2005 Pauillac 18 Drink 2013-22
Very dark with lots of minerals. Very dry and racy and not sweet!! Pure and fresh with great zest. B |
